Visiting Indian Coffee House is like visualising the past and the present coming togethar at a place!
Any cafe is more than just a coffee. It’s the centre of varied artistic activity, endless discussion, get-togethers, and whatnot! The place, the people, and the ambience created by them count more than the food. One such place is Indian Coffee House, situated on the College Street of modern-day Kolkata (Calcutta then) for ages.

Steering through the parochial lanes due to the space occupied by book stalls and stationery shops, and people, mostly students, looking for books and bargains, I reached ICH a couple of hours before I had to board the train from Sealdah. The railway station was in the vicinity of ICH, hence, I thought it would be a good way to culminate the trip. There are several chains of ICH in different cities but this one is the most sought, I think.

Do cigarettes and books agree? Yes, they do- to those who love both. Though I have an affinity for only the latter, it was an unusual sight to see a shop selling both of them together at the entrance. It didn’t come as a surprise for me when I saw a few people smoking inside the dining area of ICH before sipping their coffee and snacking.

If you’re looking for an aesthetically decorated, fancy dining place, I am afraid to state that this place is not for you. However, if you’re looking for everything except what I stated above, you’re most welcome. Although, not a refined place according to the modern sensibility, its popularity can be seen the moment you step inside.

It’s a double-story large space and till the time I stayed there, the place appeared almost full. The seats kept getting occupied one after the other. The popularity could be guessed when I saw a few foreigners relishing their coffee, followed by pictures and selfies. The entire hall was filled with indistinguishable sounds of murmur. People of almost every age including students, senior citizens, and working personnel were engaged in different activities, predominantly discussion. However, the difference, is that it was more of a discussion on personal issues rather than intellectual as it used to be once. Located near Presidency College, it was frequented by eminent personalities such as Satyajit Ray, Amartya Sen, Mrinal Sen and Aparna Sen and had been the centre for intellectual debates and talks.

There is no concept of self-service here. Certain tables have been assigned to every waiter who would come to serve you water followed by taking your order, delivering it and then collecting the money. They’ll deliver the change to your place so that there is no interruption in whatever you’re engaged in. You’ve to visit to the counter only if you wish to pay online. You can give a tip if you like otherwise, they won’t ask for it. The service was fast compared to the number of people it catered at a single time.


The options are limited if you’re a vegetarian like me and the quality of the food and the beverages are ordinary against the prices they charge. Non-veg people get slightly more options to order with. The best part is that they allow you to sit for as long as you want.

A large whiteboard is placed at the left side of the counter where you can share your views. Looks like it invites your revolutionary thoughts.

This is how I spent my time at the famous Indian Coffee house. It was a unique feeling and I can render it as the best part of my trip. I could visualise; how it was once a centre for intellectual debates where numerous great ideas emerged, scripts for movies and dramas were written, and novels and short stories were composed. Click here to read the book review of Folk Stories of Bihar.

Maintaining the tradition, I paid in cash, gave a tip to the waited who served me and set out to board my train.
Check out this link to learn more about this place.
©Shashank
P.S. Operating time: 12 noon to 8 PM | Washroom available | UPI facility available