McLeodganj: A Story of Longing and Belonging

McLeodganj is that chapter of the book without which the story of Dharamsala is incomplete!

Have you met anyone who has visited Dharamsala but not McLeodganj? Also, have you found a person who visited McLeodganj without visiting Dharamsala? I am not saying that such people don’t exist. I am of the opinion that if you explored only one of them, you might be there on purpose or on a tight schedule. Dharamsala and McLeodganj are often viewed as an intertwined entity when planning a trip. Among several reasons, the foremost is the connectivity and distance. Both are separated by 8 km. On the final day of the trip, while exploring McLeodganj, we reached the Tibetan Museum, the last place on our list. I was surprised to find out that Dharamsala was only 3 km away. So, as we started exploring, we were only going down toward Dharamsala. Hence, the reason is that even when I am writing a separate post on McLeodganj, I have included both places in the itinerary.

If you haven’t read the previous post on Dharamsala and McLeodganj, I suggest you visit this link for the complete itinerary.

Places to explore: Bhagsunath Temple and Waterfall, Naddi View point, Sahaja Yoga Meditation Centre, Dal Lake, St. John in the Wilderness Church, Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (optional), Thekchen Choling Temple (Dalai Lama Temple, Tsuglagkhang Complex), Tibetan exile centre, consisting of the Tibet Museum and Nechung Monastery.

Ropeway Option: McLeodganj is also connected to Dharamsala via a ropeway, offering an aerial view of the scenic beauty at around ₹450/- (one-way).

Note: Triund Trek begins from the Gallu Devi Temple in McLeodganj. Click here to have a complete understanding of the trek. The Guna Devi Temple trek is another one.

How to Explore: Hire a cab for ₹800-900 or a scooty. Cab drivers know the routes and where to park.

Stay: We stayed in Tripli Hotel Shivay, which is near Bhagsunath Temple. It is within walking distance (1.5 km) of McLeodganj’s main market.

Cafes and Restaurants: The place has exquisite cafes and restaurants to satiate your appetite. I checked in Madras Cafe (South Indian delicacies and ambience), Chilly Beans cafe and a couple of others. You can try local dishes such as Siddu and momos at the street vendors.

Night Life: The place starts getting desolate by 10:30 PM, and the restaurants also stop serving for the day. However, the place feels vibrant before that. Take a glimpse from here. Since I visited during the Holi festival, you can check the aura by clicking here.

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1. Bhagsunath Temple

Timing: 5 AM– 8PM

The first thing we did in the morning was to seek the divine blessing before beginning the day. If you’re staying in Bhagsu, this temple is within walking distance. There is an interesting anecdote behind the origin of this temple, which is the abode of Lord Shiva. I would recommend that you familiarise yourself with it by referring to the large banner inside the temple. There is a swimming pool beside the temple where you can take a holy dip.

A waterfall also runs beside the temple, which is mostly active during the rainy season. Since the waterfall wasn’t active, we enjoyed sitting on these rocks. Also, several adventure sports, such as cycling, paragliding and zip lining, await you. The road to the temple is a hub for shopping, selling souvenirs which you can take home.

2. Naddi View Point

Timing: Visit either in the morning or the evening

Located around 4 km above McLeodganj, the view from this place is magnificent. Unlike Dharamsala, where the view of the Dhauladhar ranges is obstructed, you’ll get a complete view of the mountains wrapped in vegetation and snow. Sit here for a while and feel the divine air caressing your face. There are several Maggi stalls, where you can have it with a view. Believe me, this view is a secret ingredient that enhances the taste. You can also have a telescopic view of several points from here at a nominal charge of 20/-.

3. Sahaja Yoga Meditation Centre

Timings: 9 AM- 6 PM

As beautiful as this meditation centre is, so is the path leading to it. It’s at the end of the road to the Naddi viewpoint, adorned with several ‘inspiring’ slogans. One of the quotes said, “LOVE THINKS. LOVE ACTS. LOVE UNDERSTANDS. LOVE FEELS. SAHAJ YOGA TEACHES LOVE.” If you’re interested in meditation practices, check this website.

4. Dal Lake

I was surprised to find ‘Dal Lake’ among the places in McLeodganj. I thought that if not Kashmir’s, let’s satiate ourselves by visiting this one for the time being. It lies on the way to Naddi View Point. However, even when I was there, I couldn’t realise I was driving beside a lake. It’s nowhere near the Dal Lake of Kashmir. Moreover, it was under maintenance when I visited. By the time you plan your trip, it may have been renovated and opened to visitors.

5. St. John in the Wilderness Church

Timings: 9 AM- 6 PM

This church, surrounded by palm trees and less populated, had a similar architectural style. You can spend some time here. There is an interesting architecture and engravings on the rear side.

6. Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA)

Timings: 9 AM- 5PM

Drama school, surmounted by hills, always fascinated me. While searching for places to explore in McLeodganj, I came across TIPA, not on any website or YouTube but on Google Maps. Hence, I always recommend that you explore maps whenever you visit any place. Not a tourist destination, but a drama school where students are trained in drama in order to preserve Tibetan art and culture. This is the reason I kept it under the optional category. The day I visited, I was lucky to watch their rehearsal of the play they would be performing in different states. Explore more about this place by visiting its website. Here is a clip of the place and their rehearsal. Can you believe that the building on the right is the students’ hostel? I bet the view from here is better than most of the hotels!

7. Thekchen Choling Temple/ Dalai Lama Temple/Tsuglagkhang Complex

Timings: 5 AM- 8PM

It won’t be wrong to say that this temple is the central point around which McLeodganj revolves. The fact that the Dalai Lama resides near the temple makes it even more spiritual. On enquiring, we found that one can meet the revered Lama after prior permission and verification. The temple has a large golden Buddha statue, along with different avatars of Buddha, where visitors offer their prayers and practice meditation. The temple has its own book shop, souvenir shops, and shops selling clothes and other valuables. Even if you don’t wanna purchase, do take a look.

8. The Tibetan Museum

Timings: 9 AM- 5PM; Entry Fee: 20/-

I would say that ‘The Tibet Museum’ is preserving Tibet’s culture, heritage, and history in modern ways, using technology to educate visitors in an interactive way. You can also play games at certain spots. The centre is more of an archive than a museum, where you can explore historical facts, the Chinese seizure of Tibet, their struggles to liberate the place, and much more. The portrait of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, sacred to Buddhism, is displayed in many places.

You can also visit this library, which is near the temple. However, before visiting them, I suggest you walk around the perimeter. A couple of canteens around here serve local cuisine.

9. Tibetan Parliament-in-exile

Following the 1959 Tibetan uprising and Chinese occupation, the 14th Dalai Lama (Tenzin Gyatso) fled Tibet and sought political asylum in India. Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru offered the group space in Dharamshala, and the Dalai Lama settled in McLeod Ganj in April 1960, establishing the Tibetan government-in-exile. The museum provides a glimpse of this. Since Tibet is now under China’s regime, the administrative centre is here, in McLeodganj. This is the reason I said it’s a different world altogether. What fascinated me the most was the architecture of the buildings and the cleanliness of the place!

10. Nechung Monastery

Timings: 5:30 AM- 7 PM

Nechung Monastery, a peaceful and quiet place, marks the end of our three-day trip (including Triund Trek) to Dharamsala and McLeodganj. I could see people doing paragliding from here. It is situated near the Tibet Museum. After paying my tribute to Buddha, I sat on one of the benches, reflecting on the Dalai Lama’s struggle to abandon his own country and establish this place. Isn’t it true- you can confiscate a region, but you can’t capture someone’s conviction, faith, beliefs, culture and tradition!

My reverie was disturbed when my friends said we had a bus to board and a cab waiting for us. With McLeodganj’s history etched in my heart, I walked toward the entrance, still reflecting, this time on my journey to these beautiful, spiritual places.

©Shashank

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P.S. Thanks, Keshav and Rahul, for agreeing to my itinerary and making the trip memorable.